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Showing posts with label ottoman empire. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ottoman empire. Show all posts

Saturday, 30 August 2014

Getting around Ottoman Istanbul

The streets of old Istanbul were often steep, narrow and winding and often stairs replaced the streets – unpaved, muddy in winter and dusty in summer. Only a very few of the widest streets, which followed flatter sections of the historic peninsula might have stone paving and these boulevards were used for ceremonial or religious parades. The Byzantine emperor who would take part in these parades apparently went on foot if the weather was good, but rode on horseback if not, according to Nevra Necipoğlu in “Byzantine Constantinople.” 

The Byzantines, however, would have had chariots and palanquins (or sedan chairs, litters), means of transportation among the ancient Romans they had inherited. Transporting goods within the city would have continued to have been by camel, mule or horse and possibly cart and oxen. Where the streets were too narrow or steep, human porters would have been hired to move items. 

Nothing much would have changed in the centuries leading up to the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453, although chariots were long gone. Men rode horses, but women likely were transported in carts – not the rough, wooden kind used for goods, but painted and decorated in ways that suited the occupants’ station with a covering that could keep out rain and sunshine. In fact, women were forbidden to ride horseback. Women could also use palanquins or sedan chairs, but would have to be escorted. We have no reason to believe the Turks, and especially the Ottomans, still relied on the horse-drawn wagons which they had used during their nomadic years coming from Central Asia.

At the beginning of the Ottoman Empire, only the sultan, seyhülislam and kadıaskers (chief judges) had the right to use a carriage, although later on ambassadors who carried imperial communications and gifts could also. Later the grand vizier and other leading officials were allowed to use carriages. In 1512, Sultan Beyazid II, who had abdicated the throne, was escorted out of the city. He rode in a carriage with his son, Sultan Selim I, walking next to it as his father gave him advice on how to rule. English Queen Elizabeth I presented Safiye Sultan in, or about, 1599 with a carriage and the latter then rode around Istanbul in it, making herself even more unpopular than she was before. We don’t know what kind of carriage this might have been.

The koçu: A covered vehicle

The koçu type of covered vehicle among the Ottomans is supposed to have originated in the town of Kocs in today’s Hungary sometime in the first part of the 16th century – the date is uncertain. It had four wheels, held several people and was pulled by oxen. [See picture six.] Kocs, located only 65 km (41 miles) northwest of Budapest, was known for its cart building and was the post town between Budapest and Vienna. It is the origin of the word coach. 

Proof is lacking, but the Ottoman Turks invaded Hungary in 1526, conquering Budapest the same year and it is likely that Kocs was taken at about the same time, or shortly thereafter.  Did the people of Kocs get the idea for a lighter vehicle pulled by horses from the Ottomans? We’ll probably never know, but two 16th century Ottoman miniatures show a covered wagon with four large wheels that was used as an ambulance. One of them carried Kanuni Sultan Süleyman’s body in 1566 (See picture 2.) and the other wagon, similarly red colored with large wheels, is the “ambulance” used to bring patients to the infirmary on theTopkapı Palace grounds. The one carrying Süleyman’s corpse was the same one in which he had ridden in as he proceeded on campaigns when he could not continue to ride on horseback.

A modern source, on the other hand, without giving a citation, says it was not until the 17th century and the reign of Sultan Ahmed I (r. 1603-1617) that the use of the koçu carriage became widespread. Perhaps the author meant the koçu as opposed to other types of carriages. On a number of occasions there were decrees issued against the use of the koçu because it was easy for them to clog up the streets. One sultan became so angry at being kept waiting in a “traffic jam” that he summoned his grand vizier, scolded him for his not having solved the problem of too many carriages and had him put to death right then and there.

Later vehicles


If one wants an even more arresting view of a carriage used during the Tulip Period (1718-1730), one was driven over the Golden Horn on a tight rope with horse, driver and women included. (See picture 3). The act was part of the circumcision feast celebrations put on by Sultan Ahmed III for his princeling sons in 1720. The vehicle bears a resemblance to some types of carriages used in European countries. 

We know a great deal more about the so-called sultanate vehicles of the 19th century, even if very few of the carriages have been preserved. This was a time when foreigners were visiting Istanbul in large numbers and writing about their experiences. Turkish women still went about in the koçu type carriage or in one in which it was difficult to see inside because curtains concealed the passengers. The carriage also provided women with a great deal more freedom as time went on. Where once peddlers had come to the house, now women, suitably veiled and escorted, could venture abroad. The Kapalıçarşı or Covered Bazaar was a favorite place and later Pera and Beyoğlu proved even stronger attractions.

Sultan Abdülhamid II had a factory established to produce the landau, a light carriage whose top folded back and these helped to further clog the streets of the city. In spite of Sultan Abdülhamid’s interest in carriages, he had the carriages in the palace stables secured with chains so that the women in the harem were unable to use them as freely as they once had on the excuse of economic necessity. 
The aftermath

The first tramway in Istanbul was inaugurated in the 1872 and the cars were pulled by horses since there was, as yet, no electricity. These operated until 1912 when they were replaced by electric tramways. The first automobile was imported into Ottoman Istanbul by Zuheyrzade Ahmet Bey in 1895 when the Galata Boat Landing was inaugurated according to one story, while another story has it that Muzika-ı Hümayun Kaymakam Stavolo brought the first automobile in. Yet a third candidate is Sultan Abdülhamid II, who is supposed to have ordered an electric car. The last of the horse and phaeton rides on the Prince’s Islands off Istanbul may soon end as a campaign has been started to replace them with electric cars. 

Monday, 18 August 2014

Remembering two historic journeys

This week we celebrate the anniversaries of two famous journeys, three centuries apart. While Evliya Çelebi began his 40-year journey that would be documented in his travelogue Seyâhatnâme in 1630, Sadun Boro and his wife Oda set sail in 1965, becoming the first ever Turkish people to globetrot in a boat.



Three centuries apart, renowned travelers began their journeys from the land that is now Turkey - two journeys that would both go on to make history. In 1630, the Ottoman Turk Evliya Çelebi began his journey in the Ottoman Empire and its surrounding lands, which would last 40 years and be documented in his travelogue Seyâhatnâme. In 1965, Sadun Boro began his own famous journey, becoming the first Turkish sailor to globetrot with his boat Kısmet.

Coming from a wealthy family and educated in court, Evliya Çelebi began his travelogue long before he began his journey of four decades. He began by recording his fascination with the architecture and culture that defined 17th century Constantinople. The Seyâhatnâme eventually turned into a 10-volume work of some of the earliest travel writing, taking in Constantinople, Anatolia, the Caucasus, the Middle East, Russia, the Balkans, Greece, Egypt and Sudan.
HDNWhile Seyâhatnâme borders on fiction with exaggerated accounts in many parts, Evliya Çelebi’s notes remain a crucial guide to the period, encompassing a crucial portion of the known world in the 17th century. All 10 volumes have never been translated into English, but the longest single English translation, Evliya Efendi, was published in 1834 by the Austrian orientalist Ritter Joseph von Hammer-Purgstall. The translation includes parts from the first two volumes, covering Constantinople and Anatolia.

Detailed analyses of Evliya Çelebi and his Seyâhatnâme have been carried out in 21st century by some scholars, the most prominent being Robert Dankoff, a professor of Turkish and Islamic Studies at the University of Chicago. An Ottoman Mentality: The World of Evliya Çelebi, published by BRILL in 2004, is the most comprehensive study of Evliya Çelebi and the Seyâhatnâme. There is also a near-complete translation intoGerman by Erich Prokosch.

HDNSailing across the globe with Kısmet


Exactly three centuries after Evliya Çelebi was traveling and writing about Austria and the Crimea, which would make up the bulk of the seventh volume of his travelogue, another traveler began his own journey across the sea. Sadun Boro set sail with his wife Oda from Istanbul in August 1965 with his 10.5-meter boat Kısmet, picking up their famous cat Miço in the Canary Islands for a journey around the globe.

The journey would last two years and 10 months, navigating a route through Gibraltar, the Canary Islands, the Caribbean, the Galapagos Islands, the Fiji Islands, Singapore, Bengal Bay, Ceylon Island, the Arabic Sea, the Red Sea, and Israel, before arriving back in Istanbul in June 1968. The couple, along with their eight-year-old daughter Kısmet Deniz (meaning sea), later set sail on another journey, traveling around the globe in two years and three months.
HDNBoro first recounted his travels in daily Hürriyet, later compiling them in his book “Pupa Yelken: Kısmet’in Dünya Seyahati” (Full Sail: Kısmet Traveling across the Globe), published in 1969. The later prints include a 35-minute CD of recordings of the Boro couple during their journey. The famous globe trot wasn’t the first open sea journey for Boro. In 1953, at the age of 24, he had sailed in his 11-meter boat Ling from England to the Caribbean Islands with a British companion. His memoirs of this journey were published in Turkey in 2004, under the name “Bir Hayalin Peşinde” (Following a Dream). Two other travelogues written by Boro are also available in Turkish.

The famous boat Kısmet was donated by Sadun Boro to the Navigation Collection of the Rahmi M. Koç Museum in Istanbul’s Haliç Shipyard. If you visit the museum, you can also see another famous boat, actually a yawl, Uzaklar (Far Away). Uzaklar was the yawl that another couple, Osman and Zuhal Atasoy - inspired by Boro family’s journey - used to globetrot. Setting sail in 1990, the couple sailed across the globe in four years and ten months, and Uzaklar became the smallest Turkish craft ever to circumnavigate the globe. Happy travels to all globetrotters - as well as those settling for less.